Climb to Visoki Rokav - Slovenia
Aljazev Dom (1015m) (Aljaz Hut) is placed in upper part of Vrata valley, near the forest end. It is accessible by car, 12km from Mojstrana village, which lies on the main road from Ljubljana (72km) to Kranjska Gora resort (12km). It was opened in 1896. In 1909 the hut was destroyed by avalanche. New hut was opened last year where it stands today. It has 150 beds and it is open from beginning of May till the end of October. Winter room has 8 beds. Hut also has phone, electricity, warm water and so on. From the hut is very beautiful view on the peaks around the valley, which rise wildly above it, and especially on Triglav and its North side.
Travel to Julian Alps and Vrata valley
On main road Ratece – Ljubljana we turn towards settlement Mojstrana. We follow the road sign for Vrata. For origin we may choose bivouac ( Bivak IV or Bivak II). Both bivouacs are accessible from valley Vrata.
For bivouac IV we must start at Aljaz hut (Aljažev dom) in direction Skrlatica and for bivouac II we must start two kilometers lower at Poldov rovt. Macadam road from Mojstrana to Aljaz hut (Aljažev dom) is by winter impassable.
Where is Rokavi ridge
The ridge of Mt. Rokavi belongs in the group of Julian Alps - Martuljek and is to be found near Mt. Skralatica as split of main ridge of Martuljek group. Visoki Rokav (2646m), Srednji Rokav (2589m) , Spodnji Rokav and woody Kalisce composed the whole ridge of Rokavi.
On west side of Rokavi Skrlatica with ridge of Rokavi enclosed V Kotlu basin. On the east side of Rokavs ridge lies plateau Na Jezerih where is placed bivouac II. There is no marked path on any summit of Rokavs ridge, and no alpine hut. The difficult of the ridge does not exceed II or III degree - not enough for real alpine , to much for hikers and exactly enough for romantic lovers of mountains.
Bivouac II
Bivouac II (2118m)is accessible from Poldov rovt (cca 900m) in two or three houres. The path begins near Poldov rovt wich lies two kilometers before Aljaz Hut. Then you turn from the main road to unmarked path right uphil through beech forest. Pleasant hunting path is ascending zigzags thrue forest. The landscape opens after half an houer of walk and on the other side of the valley the sight stops on the nord wall of Triglav. The south approachs can be in summer hard. Sun rays can be very annoying because they warm our backs. There in direction of red rock is source of Red stream. On this place we can provide ourselves with some wather. From here up to bivouac II extends scree of litlle stones. You need one houre till one hour and half to reach bivouac II.From bivouac II to the Rokavi gorge
From bivouac II.we must go to the west, towards Rokavi ridge. Over grassy pateaou Na Jezerih (On the Lakes – there is no lakes) we go to the scree under Visoki Rokav (High Sleeve). At the end of scree boulder closes entry to the gorge of Visoki Rokav. From here you must be very careful. Above us is steep, narrow and rubish gorge. There is in snowless conditions hi objective risk of stone crumble. Dont go up if you are not sure there are any climbers above you. In early spring or in winter the gorge is snowed up. In this conditions Crampons and ice-axes are one of the necessary equipment. If you succed climb up over boulder 5 m II+ to the notch of gorge (2300m) you need one hour.
Finaly - climb to Visoki rokav
From the notch, thre are two directions. First is directly from notch (South ridge) and second (Normal access) is aproximatly 20m lower in gorge. In South ridge direction we start from top of the notch in the wall. First we climb right and up over slabs to secure place (II/III UIAA). Another rope lenght we climb again right and up thru short chimny in direction stone tine II/III. Over shelf we cross left round stone tine and try to find second secure place. At this place it looks like it is the end of path. The ridge before us is sharp like knife. On the right side we find out narrow ledge, wich widers after 5 meters. After this passage we reach litlle plateau in the same height as second secure place. From here troubles are almost gone. We climb towards summit of the ridge (two ropes I/II UIAA). Little above summit of Visoki Rokav you can catch sight on the big stone in form of pear with two pins for descent. Here is crossing of Normal and South ridge direction. From notch to the summit we need aproximatly one hour and thirty minutes.Essential Gear rope, hellmet, hellmet..
